Continued……
WINTER TRAVERSE OF THE LAWERS RANGE – Day 2
The last Munro of the Range
An early rise, knowing the wind speed would be increasing as the day went on. With a brew on, we packed up and quickly set off along the ridge of Creag an Lochain as the sun began to rise. Our bodies slowly got into the swing of moving again after the big day previously, and the usual less than perfect sleep when wild camping. A couple of steep snow banks, requiring crampons and ice axe, soon got the brain alert and the latter part of the ridge was very pleasant up to Meall Nan Tarmachan (Munro #8) after the initial slog. The wind had certainly picked up but not enough to blow us off our feet, at least and we could already see more inversion conditions in the Glen of loch Tay. The views along our destined route, toward Beinn nan Eachan, were stunning with it looking almost alpine from our approach.
Meall nan Tarmachan summit
Onwards from the summit
From the summit it was onwards to Meall Garbh, one of the Munro Tops along this ridge line, as well as the famous Tarmachan ridge. Wide enough to stand on but impressive all the same, a short but sweet little ridge with careful footing required.
Tarmachan Ridge in Winter
The Descent
A steep descent followed the ridge with a few very awkward downsteps, probably at climbing grade in winter and even awkward in summer. You can however bypass it by heading slightly back up the track (a matter of 10-20 meters and turn off the track left, as you look up, and weave your way down on less exposed ground, albeit still steep).
From here it was plain sailing across the 2nd Munro top of Beinn nan Eachan and off toward Creag na Caillich, affording us time to enjoy the views far and wide and playing ‘name the mountain’ as we went. The wind was picking up and clouds were looming, as we had expected, but we were dropping out of it and not to be troubled by them today.
Final Ridge to Descent
A lift back to the carpark
We got a surprise when the first person we had seen in the 2 days appeared behind us while we were having a snack. After chatting to him for a while, he kindly offered us a lift back to our car, saving us our planned hitch hike from Killin or the 12km walk along the road. So, thanks to John for the lift and the chat along the track back to the main Lawers carpark.
After a truly special couple of days, back at the car, that lovely boots off feeling, the journey home flew by. Talking in wonderment of how lucky we had been and looking forward to the next adventure (although knowing it was more likely to be raining, windy and cloudy!)
Day 2 – Approx: 13.5km of Walking + 780m Ascent
Route Part 2
Top tips if your planning this route yourself.
If you are planning this route for yourself these would be a couple of small recommendations I would like to pass on.
2 cars makes it easier at the end, but be conscious of the environmental impact of taking 2 cars over 1. Hitch hiking is definitely an option and was our plan (obviously be careful if doing this). Also chatting to people on the hill, most of us are friendly and know the Lawers range can require people to hitch back to the car.
Be used to walking on tough ground and have good boots for it! (preferably waterproofed or reproofed as it can be boggy & wet in places).
Make sure you are hill fit. Even as a 1 day in summer conditions, this is a long walk and some tough ascents. Get a few hills under your belt before and this will be much more enjoyable.
An Stùc is a scramble in summer from what I am aware and in winter is probably close to a grade 1 gully in steepness – With or without a full expedition pack you need to be comfortable on this kind of terrain for the ascent. It is a certainly beyond an ordinary walk.
Tarmachan Ridge – If you’re not used to narrow ridges, it can be intimidating (especially with wind). The descent after it can be bypassed if you head back up just a short way from the downclimb looking section.
Remain flexible – You can always adapt plans and change it up depending how you are feeling or how the weather is.
Munro Meanings:
Meall nan Tarmachan – hill of the ptarmigan
References:
OS Maps, Walk Highlands, ‘The Munros’ – Cameron McNeish