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This blog was written prior to the Covid-19 lockdown and merely published a lot later than hoped. Remember we are still on lockdown, please do not head into the mountains. We are in this together.

Ben Ledi Hike

This blog post is meant as a reminder to always be prepared, even when the mountain is considered ‘easy’. Any mountain in the UK deserves full respect and should be approached with the correct skills & kit required for the conditions at play.

On the edge of the highlands, as you arrive along the A84, Ben Ledi stands behind the small town of Callander. Just half an hour from Stirling, or an hour and a quarter from Edinburgh, it provides that real mountain feel, both as you look up at it as you approach along the road, and also when you reach the summit with its spectacular views. On a good day you get a great sense of the sheer number of mountains to climb in the southern part of Scotland and how much potential there is.

You could be forgiven for thinking its just a ‘walk in the park’, with its maintained path and relatively short time required to reach the summit.

However, as with all Scottish mountains it is ready to bite back at the unexpectant.

Since moving to Scotland I’ve been up it a few times. Both in summer and winter, as well as on my mountain bike. My last walk up there was the most challenging so far and the prompt for writing this blog.

Winter on Ben Ledi

Sunshine in Edinburgh and a rubbish forecast in the Highlands, but with 2 days available- and a friend interested in trying a bit of winter walking, it would be rude not to head out for some sort of activity. Day 2 looked considerably better than day 1 so it was going to be a harsh intro to winter but with prospects of great views on day 2. Ben Ledi was my poor weather option. This route would keep us in lee of the mountain, meaning we were out of the wind for as long as possible even if we couldn’t hide from the rain!

I’m not sure my friend truly believed what would be in store for us when I tried to explain. Maybe he thought I was just trying to scare him? But I was preparing him for what would be a tough day despite being a relatively easy mountain in good conditions.

Leaving the sunshine of Edinburgh behind, the skies grew darker and moodier with every mile as we approached Callander and soon enough we were in the rain. Parked up at the, for once, empty carpark at the Pass of Leny, we donned our waterproofs from the outset and started up the track, reaching snow and slush after just a short while. The persistent rain attempted to dampen our spirits but we keep moving and enter the clag before we hit the main ridge to the summit. At least we are still sheltered from the wind for now.

Winter on Ben Ledi - Not looking too bad in this picture.

As we reach the summit ridge wind hits us. 30-40mph at a guess and hitting us across our left shoulders trying to push us sideways. Its still walkable at the moment but we are glad it is not directly in our faces as it’s a mix of snow and hail now pelting us.

If a photo Summaried what it felt like…..

With the wind making every effort to push us off course and snow now, more or less, covering the track, my navigation head is fully switched on making sure we don’t stray off course and without seeing them walk over the cliffs to our right.

We take a fair beating from wind with this hail mix as we head along the ridge, which feels never ending in these conditions. The lack of view of anything, other than the inside of the cloud, not aiding that feeling. My friend insists he is alright and that his waterproofs are holding out and he’s ‘happy’ to carry on. Later however, over a pint in the pub, he confesses the latter was not so true. Waterproofs were starting to leak but, as we were nearly there, he wanted to push on.

Ben Ledi Summit

Finally, after what feels like far longer than it would in good conditions, the cross serving as a memorial to Sgt. Harry Lawrie comes into view. It was a welcome sight. Stood at the trig point on the summit the wind is blocked momentarily. Our gloves wet through by this point, so a quick change into a fresh pair (always a great feeling), a couple of selfies, as you do when there are no views, and some snacks and we made our way back down.

The Descent

We set off back down into more of the wind, snow, and hail but pace is upped with the ease of descending and we are glad to reach the turning back off the ridge to get a bit of releif out of the wind again. The snow is back to rain but easing, and we drop below the clag to enjoy the first proper view of the day. A well earned view off Loch Lubnaig. Enjoying the view we make our way back to the car and reflect on the difficulty of an ‘easy’ mountain in such conditions. This was a new experience for my friend, maybe not one he would repeat too quickly if he can avoid it, but an eye opener certainly. How much the weather can impact the day.

1st view of the day - Loch Lubnaig as we descended

We took around 4 hours up and down and in this short time, waterproofs had leaked and rain was driven in through gaps around wrists and neck, meaning we were fairly wet, even inside of them, by now. The change of clothes at the car was a great feeling!

Once at our hostel for the night we were very glad of a good drying room.

Scottish weather

Unfortunately, days like this are relatively common in Scotland (even in summer just without the snow) so my advice is make sure you can navigate well. Get out and practice as it’s a skill that gets rusty or book a course if you haven’t done much navigation before. Have the right kit with you. Things that work for you. I struggle with cold hands so have spent time sorting out glove combinations that work. Always be prepared for emergencies. We all hope never to have one but that doesn’t stop me carrying the extra kit every time regardless.

P.S. Day 2

We did Ben Challum and the morning was near cloud-free with stunning views. It definitely made up for conditions the day before!

Day 2 - On route up Ben Challum with spectacular views