Perseverance in rockclimbing

Yesterday was a big day for me: I attempted to climb my first E1 grade climb. To many this will not seem like much but for me it was huge.

I’m not a natural climber. I struggled with a fear of heights to the point that when I started climbing, way back when, even lowering down on a top rope indoors felt daunting, let alone leading outside on protection you’d placed yourself. But climbing is a funny sport, it sucks you in. The more you climb the more you want to keep climbing.

Trad Climbing

Some friends at my local wall introduced me to traditional (trad) climbing* with trips to the Peak District after some time of indoor climbing. The beauty of the Roaches, the amazing grit stone routes there, combined with the thrill of placing your own protection, even on the easy routes, got me truly hooked. To me it felt like it shouldn’t be possible but it was so addictive.

E1 Grade

This has been the grade I have aspired to try since those early Peak District trips, but it always seemed impossible. E (standing for ‘Extreme’) gives me the fear just thinking about it but that’s how climbing works. You find something that seems unrealistic and aim for that. Back when I was leading Diffs & Vdiffs, learning the techniques, my friend, who had climbed up to E4, was like a mythical creature. “How is that even possible?”, I would ask myself. Tackling gritstone slabs with very little, if any, protection and complete trust in your feet just seemed like madness.

Mental Battles

It has been an interesting few years since I moved to Scotland. I relocated with the intent of getting out climbing more often, due to the accessibility of it here, as well as out into the bigger mountain routes but, somehow, the climbing part completely fell away due to one thing or another. I had spent a few years climbing in the Peak district (plus a few multi-pitch in Wales) and built up the strength in my mental game to the point of leading a few VS and my first HVS. Unfortunately, this lack of consistent climbing had taken that mental resilience away and I was back to square one. Every climb I did was an age away from the last and this meant I wasn’t on form and able to get back to those harder climbs. After some time, I was back to more regular climbing but I still could not push past my mental block and continued to climb Severe grade climbs. This became frustrating, stuck unable to get past that fear of leading. I wasn’t going to stop climbing so it was just a case of sticking with it and believing something would change. Eventually, I visited the dirty quarry of Rosyth, a different rock type and the switch flicked. I managed to climb both the classic VS routes of Heathy & Cathy, followed a few weeks later by the HVS; The Waullie.

Dead Ringer - E1 5b, Limekilns

Dead Ringer E1 5b (without the rings) - Limekilns

So back to yesterday; a friend had told me about this route at limekilns called Dead Ringer, and made it sound a feasible lead. I finally got over there, having never been to the area, and it’s a lovely spot. In the woods, just sitting above of the Firth of Forth, is a large block of limestone. An amazing structure filled with fossils (trilobites, so my friend tells me). The weather was playing ball and, despite some rain as I left Edinburgh, the rock was dry so I lead 4 VS routes to start with (later finding out through UK 2 they were not VS at all!), all well protected making for some really nice climbing, although Jamming with a fossil in the back of your hand leaves much to be desired. Afterward, I had a quick look to see what the route my friend had told me about, Dead Ringer, to assess what it consisted of. Two old, metal rings higher up, start up the corner then traverse slightly left and follow the cracks past the rings on the right. It looked alright but I tussled with my capabilities, “Should I, shouldn’t I?” It looked like I could put gear in, at least. All things considered, I went off calmly and tentatively, moving carefully and making sure gear was good. I got to the rings and the crux, which appears blank. I had missed a foot hold and couldn’t see it, with the hand hold being an unobvious crimp. I clung on for as long as possible but was pumping out quickly, lockdown had definitely taken its toll on my finger strength. Finally, I couldn’t hold on any longer and had to rest. I rested… and rested… and rested some more… and then flailed a few times, with some swearing, but I finished the route. A dog lead** on an E1.

Reflection

Not the picture-perfect lead we all desire, with all the moves managed and no resting or falls, but a massively positive climb for myself. I had stayed super calm the whole route, my head was in the right place and it’s definitely well within reach. It wasn’t just a joke, having a go at the route. It appears that the perseverance through tough times is paying off.

Now to get back there and finish it off properly!

*Trad or Traditional Climbing – outdoor climbing where the person leading the route places protection as they climb.

**Dog Lead – Leading a route but either falling or resting on the rope. Not a clean lead.

I’ve attached a link for the conversion grade table by Rockfax so if the letters don’t mean much to you this may help (or not!)

https://rockfax.com/climbing-guides/grades/